Valderredible

 Introducing Valderredible

Valderredible, the southernmost and largest municipality of Cantabria, lies to the south of Lake Ebro and is bordered by Burgos to the south and east and Palencia to the west. Its 300 square kilometres is home to some fifty villages and a little under a thousand inhabitants, with its main town and administrative centre at Polientes. Its name derives from the old Spanish for ‘Valley on the banks of the River Ebro’ and the river does indeed play a major part in the geography, economy and infrastructure of the area. Sitting on the edge of the meseta, Valderredible shares its climate with the northern central mass of Spain with limited rainfall, summer temperatures in excess of thirty degrees and cold winters.

Here the visitor will find a wealth of treasures, both natural and man made that are often overlooked in the guide books. The compendium of attractions includes imposing churches, forest walks, geological treats, breathtaking waterfalls, illuminating museums, an astronomical observatory and, of course, the tremendous collection of rock churches for which it is possibly most renowned.

Its expansive fields provide pasture for a range of livestock as well as growing areas for various crops including the region’s famous potatoes. In the forests and skies above you can observe an abundant array of birdlife and it is especially worth looking out for the large number of storks that nest here in the spring and summer.

The rock churches of Valderredible

One of the most impressive sights and experiences associated with the municipality of Valderredible is its wide collection of rock churches: places of worship hewn out of the soft, sandy rock prevalent in this part of Spain. The phenomena first appeared around the sixth century and may have been imported from monastic communities in Egypt. One explanation for their presence in northern Spain is that the underground churches were developed so as to conceal them from the Muslim forces that invaded and colonised the peninsula from the eighth century onwards.

There are thought to be some fifty such sites of historical significance in Valderredible and nearby you will often find a necropolis, hermitage or hermit’s cell. The architecture varies with some being little more than a space fashioned out of a pre-existing cave while others may include arches, separate chambers or an altar.

The Centro de Interpretación (Information Centre) is located alongside one of the finest examples of church and necropolis at Santa María de Valverde, adjacent to the CA 273, and offers a unique guide to the churches, their history, architecture and cultural significance. The visitor is conducted on an audio visual tour by a virtual monk and has the opportunity to witness the artefacts, lifestyle and surroundings related to medieval monastic life.

The south-west corner

The principal attractions in this part of Valderredible are all located conveniently on or close to the CA273 as it makes its way from the A67 motorway towards Polientes. Leaving the motorway at junction 109, the road has stretches in both Cantabria and its neighbour, Palencia.

Continuing along the main road from Cezura (which is in Palencia), you soon arrive at San Andrés de Valdelomar with its impressive church and bell tower. The church is a good example of the local, rock-based architecture. A little further along the main road is San Martín de Valdelomar where you will find a twelfth century church as well as a well preserved lavadero.

The Centro de Interpretación (Information Centre) that deals with the archeological sites in this area is located alongside one of the finest examples of church and necropolis at Santa María de Valverde, adjacent to the CA 273. The centre offers a unique guide to the churches, their history, architecture and cultural significance. The visitor is conducted on an audio visual tour by a virtual monk and has the opportunity to witness the artefacts, lifestyle and surroundings related to medieval monastic life. The entrance fee includes a visit to the church – which is still used for religious services - and the adjacent necropolis.

High above the village of Castrillo, you will see the church of Santa Leocadia. Driving into the village it is possible to park in the small square, alongside the sports pitch. Here you will find an excellent example of a potro: a stall used for restraining a horse or other animal so that it can be shoed or attended to. Walking up towards the church you come to one the region’s original schools. Compulsory education was introduced in Spain in 1912 and schools were built across Cantabria to provide basic education. This building dates from 1922 and was one of several in this part of Valderredible. Continuing up to the thirteenth century church you will see an impressive necropolis alongside the western wall of the building. 

As you head into the next village,Susilla, as you enter the village, you are treated to a view of the tallest church in Valderredible, known as La Catedral del Valle. Here, you will also find a museum dedicated to rural life – La Pastiza - where you will see tools and artefacts from the seventeenth century, preserved in their original condition. Close to Susilla, about 500 metres along the road towards Quintanilla, there are signposts and a grass track leading to a necropolis and the ruins of a cave church. To date little is known about the burial site. In this area you can also also see the remains of a trench and other fortifications dating from the era of the Civil War. The final stop on this part of the route is at Villanueva de la Nia which is dominated by the imposing but slightly unkempt twelfth century church, San Juan Bautista.

Crossing the roundabout and staying on the CA272 as it runs alongside the River Ebro, brings you to one of the gems of this part of Valderredible, La Puente del Valle. Situated five kilometres west of Polientes, Puente is host to a fascinating museum, dedicated to the art of dry stone walling. For a modest entrance fee you can gaze with wonder on reconstructions of various styles of structure and learn about the different purposes, techniques and history of this key aspect of rural living. The museum, Centro de Interpretación de Piedra en Seco, is signposted from the main road and is located very close to the eighteenth century church, San Roque y Santa María.

From the church, it is about a five hundred metre walk (or drive) to one of the most important archeological sites in this part of Spain. Returning to the main road you turn left and then immediately right onto the CA754 and then, at a fork, go left on the CA753. There are green signposts on the side of the road to guide you. Soon, you arrive at another junction where a sign directs you into a field. Enter the field and turn right onto a grass track which will lead you to the site of the necropolis.

The tombs here, which are easily identifiable in the sandy rock, date from between the Bronze Age and the early middle ages and you will also find the remains of hermit caves and a rock church dedicated to San Pantaleon for whom the site is named. It is a truly awe-inspiring experience to wander and stand among these remnants of a bygone era. If you feel the need to draw breath after this close encounter with the past, there is a recreation area with picnic tables adjacent to the main road.

As you head towards Polientes you come to Campo del Ebro where there is another rock church. The church is believed to date from the eighth or ninth century and is variously dedicated to San Miguel, Santa Eulalia or San Millán. The structure is located behind a more modern church and, although it is not possible to gain access to the interior, it is possible to look in through the windows.

 Walks

A walking tour from Santa María de Valverde

Alongside the Information Centre at Santa María de Valverde there is a panel with details of a fourteen kilometre walk visiting some of the most important landmarks in the area.

Having enjoyed the church and necropolis adjacent to the Information Centre, you start by following the main road west to San Martín de Valdelomar where you soon come to the lavadero and church described above. Continuing along the road to Cezura, a track will take you to the cave complex known as Cuevatón. Returning to the main road (CA273), a right turn takes you to San Andrés de Valdelomar.

From here, you have several options. You can follow either a marked track or the main road to Castrillo and then, once you have visited the old school, the necropolis and the church you can either retrace your steps or follow a rural track back to the Information Centre at Santa María de Valverde.

 East from Polientes

Leaving Polientes on the CA274, you very soon come to the turning for the observatory at La Lora, located on the border between Cantabria and Castilla-León. The drive up to the observatory is quite steep and can be challenging at night or in difficult weather conditions. The observatory offers late night star gazing opportunities at the weekends from April to October which can be booked through their website, although you may wish to check the weather forecast beforhand. In the event of rain or cloud, you have the alternative of a very informative and interesting astronomy talk and explanation of the centre’s work. On a clear day, it is worth driving the five kilometres to the site from where you will be rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding landscape.

The road back to the CA274 takes you past the bar and recreation area, La Presa. Sitting on the banks of the River Ebro, this spot makes for a charming picnic area plus, in spring and summer, you may well be treated to a fly past from the storks who build their nests in the surrounding trees.

Resuming your journey eastwards, you arrive at a roundabout where the CA274 heads north, while the road east is the CA275. At this roundabout you will find artwork designed by the celebrated Santander artist, Okuda, although the bright colours – for which he is renowned – can prove something of a distraction as you drive past. The small village of Ruerrero is located close to this roundabout and here you will find a couple of cafeterias, a church and, further up the hill beyond the houses, a prominent fourteenth century tower. 

The next section of road includes some notable historical and architectural sites. Within two kilometres you arrive at Cadalso where the small rock church dedicated to Nuestra Señora del Carmen is located very close to the road. Parking here can be difficult but there is a parking bay at the entrance to the village. On the other side of the road you will find another tower, this example dating from the fifteenth or sixteenth century.

A little over two kilometres further on brings us to two very different but equally enthralling structures, making this one of the most important corners in this part of Cantabria.

First, turn left towards Arroyuelos and then take the right turn to approach the village. Continue uphill through the houses until you reach the church of Santa Catalina. From here a road and then a grass track will lead you to the rock church, San Asisclo y Santa Victoria. This remarkable building was constructed between the seventh and tenth centuries and covers two levels. The different rooms comprise a church and various examples of hermits’ living quarters. The surroundings show evidence of a possible further structure and several tombs cut into the rock. This particular rock church is highly valued both for its size and excellent state of repair.

Having enjoyed this journey into Cantabria’s religious and architectural history, return to the main road and cross directly ahead to enter the extensive village, San Martín de Elines, one of Cantabria’s principal tourist attractions. The village is made up of three distinct barrios and includes a number of cafeterias and restaurants. You will also find a lavadero and water trough. The main focus of attention, though is the Colegiata de San Martín, for whom the village is named.

Built on the remains of a former tenth century church, the complex started life as a monastery before becoming a colegiata - a privately owned place of worship - in the twelfth century. It currently operates as a parish church. It is an imperious building with various additions being made over the course of its long history. Visits can be arranged via its website or through the Tourist Information Office in Polientes. 

Close to the border with Castilla-León and just three kilometres beyond San Martín de Elines, is the final stop on this route: the waterfalls and rock church at Tobazo. As you approach Villaescusa de Ebro, there is a large parking area on the left. This also the start point for a via ferrata circuit. Cross the road and turn left to follow a wide path alongside the river. Soon, waymarkers guide you uphill and across fields to a truly spectacular waterfall. There are various viewing points along the way and, once you reach the top of the climb (mirador de la Toba  and Poza Azul), you can enjoy the added bebenfit of visiting a rock church, cut into the hillside.

Walks

Gran Ruta-99

At different points on the journey eastwards from Polientes it is possible to join the national walking route GR-99 which follows the River Ebro through this part of Cantabria and then crosses north-east Spain until it joins the Mediterranean at Tarragona. Good places to pick up the route include by the cafeteria La Presa near Polientes, San Martín de Elines and Villaescusa de Ebro all of which offer good opportunities for parking.

Tobazo

A captivating walk with much to see and enjoy can be found at Tobazo, with parking on the main road at Villaescusa de Ebro. The walk is generally easy but with some short, steep sections.

From the car park at Villaescusa, cross the road and then a bridge over the River Ebro takes you into the village. Turn left immediately and then signs lead across fields and steadily uphill with views of a spectacular waterfall. The marked path continues its ascent until you reach the source of the River Tobazo; a viewpoint for seeing the upper waterfall (mirador de la Toba) and the Poza Azul, a small well. Following a sign for ermita rupestre, a short diversion here will take you to the rock church, ermita rupestre de Villaescusa.