Valdeprado

 Leaving the southern shore of Lake Ebro just before Arroyo, the CA735 follows the River Ebro southwards into the heart of Valdeprado del río. This drive has an almost magical feel to it, with abundant wildlife, gnarly oak trees lining the road and the babbling waters of the River Ebro on the left. After a short distance, a sign directs you onto the CA741 to the Santuario Montesclaros. This sprawling complex has a long and chequered history going back to the fourth or fifth century. It has been variously associated with appearances of the Virgin Mary, the introduction of Christianity to Spain, a refuge from the Moorish invaders, a base for Napoleon’s invading troops and as a Dominican monastery. In 1936, the entire Dominican community were executed in the Spanish Civil War. An excellent view of the Santuario, with Lake Ebro in the background, can be enjoyed from the mirador located nearby, alongside the CA741.

A short diversion from the CA741 leads to Aldea de Ebro where there is a thirteenth century church, San Juan Bautista, an impressive bell tower and a shrine, dedicated to St Peter. These three structures are grouped together in a square named, Plaza de los tres campanarios. From a wall next to the church you can enjoy beautiful views of the River Ebro below and the lush foliage on its banks. Here you will also find a number of information panels and a map of the locality. Leading away from the village, a track which forms part of the Gran Ruta 99, takes you downhill to a bridge across a tributary of the Ebro, Arroyo de Albergue. Either side of the bridge there is a pleasant waterfall and a number of small pools suitable for fishing or swimming. Crossing the bridge and taking the grass track to the right brings you to more significant pools, known locally as baños.

Another church with well maintained surrounding gardens can be found at Barruelo, on the way to Reocín de los Molinos where there is a large car park close to the main road (CA272). This immaculately maintained village is on the banks of the River Polla and there is a delightful waterfall at the entrance to the village. A sign directs you to a riverside walk, Senda Fluvial, which, once you have crossed a bridge, will lead you to the mills that give the village its name.

Heading back north a short distance and turning left onto the CA744, brings you to Valdeprado del Río. Soon after entering the village you will see signs for a well marked circular walking route, Ruta de los pueblos abandonados which, as its name suggests, takes you to a number of deserted villages, including Candenosa which at 1150 metres (3770ft) above sea level, is the highest village in Cantabria. Continuing into the main part of the village of Valdeprado, you will find the principal church, Santa María la Mayor. Returning to the main road and turning right, a ten kilometre drive brings you to the roundabout and junction with the CA272 from where you can access Polientes and San Martín de Elines to the east or, in the opposite direction, the villages of western Valderredible and the A67 motorway.

 

 Walks

Ruta de los pueblos abandonados

Although this route is generally advertised as being nine kilometres long, the actual distance covered, allowing for climbs, descents and diversions, can be closer to fifteen kilometres.

The walk starts in Valdeprado del río with signs leading you away from the dwellings and gently uphill until you reach an intersection with another track, ‘Travesía de Moroso’, from where signs take you to the remains of the village, Moroso. Again, signs lead you away from the ruins and through trees with spectacular views on all sides.

The path crosses a stream and through beech trees until eventually you arrive at Candenosa with its delapidated former houses. Leaving the last of the houses behind, the path swings right and heads toward Hormiguera where you pass the church, Santa Juliana, on the left.

Take care with the signage in the next section as the path leads you to Sotillo and onto the road which brings you to the shrine San Vitores and then back to the starting point.